Buffalo Chicken Wings

Ingredients

• 3 pounds raw chicken wings, separated into flats and drumettes, tips removed
• 1 tablespoon aluminum-free baking powder (not baking soda)
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 teaspoons neutral oil, for the racks
• 1/2 cup cayenne-pepper hot sauce
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

Method

1. 1

   Step 1. Plan on about 9 hours 35 minutes with the minimum drying time: 15 minutes preparation, at least 8 hours refrigerated drying, about 15 minutes oven preheating, 45–60 minutes baking and 5 minutes finishing. Drying may extend to 24 hours. Use two 13-by-18-inch rimmed sheet pans with oven-safe wire racks, tongs and an instant-read thermometer. Start with thawed wings; frozen wings need refrigerator thawing first, usually about 24 hours, in addition to this schedule.

2. 2

   Step 2. Line the sheet pans with foil and set the wire racks on top. Brush the racks with the measured oil. Pat the wings very dry with paper towels; do not rinse raw poultry. In a large bowl, toss the wings with the baking powder, salt, garlic powder and pepper until lightly and evenly coated.

3. 3

   Step 3. Arrange the coated wings on the racks with gaps. Refrigerate uncovered at 40°F or below for 8–24 hours, on a bottom shelf away from ready-to-eat food; the pans must catch all drips. Include this drying time in the wings’ total 1–2-day raw refrigerated storage limit. Keep refrigerated while the oven heats fully to 425°F with racks in the upper and lower thirds. Bake for 45–60 minutes, turning the wings and swapping pan positions halfway through, until browned and crisp. Check several large flats and drumettes for at least 165°F in the thickest meat without touching bone; continue and recheck if needed.

4. 4

   Step 4. During the final 5 minutes of baking, warm the hot sauce and butter together in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring until the butter melts. Keep the sauce warm without boiling. Wash any bowl, tongs or surface that touched raw chicken before handling cooked wings.

5. 5

   Step 5. Rest the cooked wings uncovered on their racks for 3–5 minutes, then move to a clean large bowl. Toss first with two-thirds of the warm sauce; add the remainder only as needed for an even coating, or serve it immediately alongside. Serve at once in six appetizer portions; excess sauce and prolonged holding soften the skin.

6. 6

   Step 6. Refrigerate leftovers promptly in shallow containers, within 2 hours (1 hour above 90°F), at 40°F or below. Use within 3–4 days; reheat to 165°F. If both pans cannot fit with airflow around them, cook in two batches and add 45–60 minutes to the schedule; refrigerate the second batch of raw wings until its turn.