Chicken Biryani

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 3/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 4 garlic cloves, finely grated
• 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
• 2 teaspoons garam masala
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided
• 2 cups aged basmati rice, rinsed until the water runs mostly clear
• 4 cups cool water for soaking rice
• 3 quarts water for parboiling rice
• 4 tablespoons ghee, divided
• 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
• 4 whole cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick (3-inch)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup hot water, plus up to 1/4 cup if rice needs more steaming

Method

1. 1

   Step 1. Allow about 2 hours, allowing longer if the onions or rice need it, including 30 minutes of refrigerated chicken marination, a 20-minute rice soak, and a 10-minute final rest. Use a heavy 6-quart ovenproof lidded pot, a 5-quart saucepan, colander, foil, and an instant-read thermometer. This home biryani uses cooked chicken masala layered with parboiled rice. Soaking and ingredient preparation overlap the marinade.

2. 2

   Step 2. Combine the chicken, yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, ginger, garam masala, cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes while preparing the onions and other ingredients. Do not taste the raw marinade.

3. 3

   Step 3. During the final 20 minutes of marination, soak the rinsed rice in the 4 cups cool water. Drain thoroughly. Heat the oven to 350°F. Have the rice saucepan and its measured parboiling water ready; the rice will be boiled after the chicken masala is nearly cooked.

4. 4

   Step 4. Heat 3 tablespoons ghee in the ovenproof pot over medium heat. Cook the onions for 18–22 minutes, stirring often, until deeply golden, lowering the heat if narrow pieces darken before the rest. Use the color cue rather than forcing dark onions within the time range. Reserve one-third of the onions. Add the chicken and all its marinade, then the tomatoes. Simmer uncovered for 15–20 minutes, stirring, until the thickest chicken pieces reach 165°F and the masala is thick enough that a spoon drawn through it leaves a brief trail. Do not proceed with a watery sauce.

5. 5

   Step 5. While the chicken simmers, bring the 3 quarts water to a boil in the saucepan with the remaining 1 tablespoon salt, cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon. Add the drained rice and begin checking after 3 minutes; usually 4–6 minutes is enough. Stop when the outside is tender but a grain still has a firm, opaque core. Drain immediately, retaining the whole spices with the rice.

6. 6

   Step 6. Level the hot chicken masala in the pot. Spread the hot drained rice over it without stirring. Scatter over the reserved onions, mint, cilantro, and remaining 1 tablespoon ghee; sprinkle evenly with 1/4 cup hot water. Cover the pot with foil and then its lid. Bake for 20–25 minutes.

7. 7

   Step 7. Check that the rice is tender and the center of the assembled dish reaches 165°F. If rice is still firm, sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup hot water, reseal, and bake 5–10 minutes more. Rest covered off the heat for 10 minutes. Remove the cinnamon and visible whole spices, then lift layers gently onto plates. Chill leftovers in shallow portions within 1 hour; use within 24 hours and reheat once to 165°F.